RESINS
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resin model
Carbide scrapers, available at www.riorondo.com
Jewelers’ files these can also be ordered from Rio Rondo they are called pocket needle file set or most hobby
stores carry them.
Pencil
Medium, fine and extra fine wet/dry sand paper and a dish scrubber sponge like Scotch Brite, .sponge on one side
and scouring pad on the other.
Grumbacher gesso or liqutex modeling paste and stencil brushes
Epoxy, I recommend Apoxie Sculpt (I recommend the white, but the colored is great for sculpting has a bit more
clay feel to it for some reason) available at www.aves.com
Dremel, with varies sanding barrels, bits and nubs (mostly for recarving plastic pieces) and safety goggles
Superglue and backing soda (please make sure it is glue and not a gel)
Ajax cleanser Dawn Dish Soap
Toothbrush (I prefer an electric one, like one of the new battery operated ones)
Auto primer (Duplicolor an auto primer found at Wal-Mart, Kmart, or auto stores comes in rust, grey or black) or
Painters Touch (found at Home Depot comes in white) I actually like this primer over all however the auto primer
is really nice if you have a piece you just can not seem to get smooth enough as it fills the little things. You can use
almost any primer just make sure it is a sandable primer.
Pic. 2 and 3: To begin I usually mix up a bit of the epoxy and fill any large holes or divots, and on Peter Stone
plastics fill the logo, smooth it as well as possible with water and a finger tip. If you have any doubts as to having
skin allergies I recommend that you wear latex gloves I recommend the Apoxie sculpt as it is supposed to be non
toxic and smoothes extremely well with just water. For small pin holes and divots I fill the hole with baking soda
and then add a drop of super glue, this makes for a great filler though it is a bit tuff to sand. Or you can use the
grumabacher gesso or modeling paste, along with a stencil brush to fill those little guys. Let everything dry,
overnight is usually best even though the epoxy will most likely be dry in 2 to 4 hours. Also, if you are working on
a plastic piece now is a good time to carve out those ears nostrils, ECT. And do any extra bits of extra recarving
that you think necessary.
Pic. 4: Take your piece outside where you can get a good look at it and find those seams, I use a pencil to mark
all of them just to make sure.
Pic. 5: Using the Carbide Scraper, scrap the seams off and any other flashing you may find. I use my jeweler files
to do some of the tough areas in the mane and so forth.
Pic. 6: I then start with my medium sand paper to work on the areas that I filled, and then progress to fine to
smooth them even more and work on the areas I just went over with the carbide scrapers and files, and then once
again with the extra fine, just because. I then take the piece back outside to check it again.
Pic. 7: With your toothbrush and Ajax, (actually soft scrub or any abrasive type cleaner will do) I make a paste
and start scrubbing the piece to try and get as much oil, dust and residue off the piece, (this can take as long as 15
minutes) making sure to rinse and rewash with a dish soap like Dawn, and rinse again. Put the piece aside and let
it dry. (if you are doing a plastic piece {Stone or Breyer or a hollow cast resin} make sure to fill the air hole with a
piece of sticky wax just to make sure you don’t get water inside the piece)
Pic. 8: Put your latex glove on and head out the door with your piece and primer. Shake the can well and use
long even stokes. Do not get too close or use heavy layers or you will get some nasty runs! I usually hold the
piece either by the tail or hind legs, saving them for the second session. I bring the piece in and set it down on a
piece of wax paper and let it dry thoroughly before doing a second session. A note here you do not have to get
the piece all done in one or 2 sessions, it can take as many as six.
Now just when you think you are done it is time again to check the piece for anything you may have missed. Take
the piece outside and look for any seams that may have been left or divots, and repeat the steps (minus the
washing) until you are satisfied that you have gotten done as much as humanly possible. It helps as well to have a
second pair of eyes if possible. They may see something you may have missed. Also I use the Scotch Brite pad
(scouring side) to smooth out any areas in the primer that I feel got to heavy or did not come out right. This works
really well and does not tear at the primer like sand paper does.
Another note here, if you are planning any resulpting such as a new mane and tail, make sure you get this done
first, before priming, as the epoxy will lift from the paint and cause a whole new series of problems.
Something I have also noticed from reading some of the notes in other groups is the idea of stripping off the factory
paint from the bodies. I am not sure why this is felt necessary, but I personally have never done it. It just seems
like a lot of extra work to me since I am going to be priming right over the piece any way, and can cause some
nasty chemical reactions, leading to stickiness and so forth, and proper prepping will rid you off the stickiness, but
I will leave that up to you.
By now you may realize why so many artists are asking for prep work to be done, not that it is hard, but time
consuming, and to be quite honest by the time I am done prepping a piece I find most of my inspiration to paint it,
is sadly gone.
I have not found a ton of people to do prepping either, so if you know of a prepping person, please let us know it
would be greatly appreciated.
I hope this has helped at least a few of you, just please be safe! Also if there is enough interest we can cover
something like adding a new mane and tail later and how to carve out hooves, ears and such another time.
